Category Archives: Travel

Cake or Death?

A post about Eddie Izzard you ask? No.

If you offered half the students in the Hyde Park area of Leeds the option of Cake or Death, they would (in my opinion unwisely, but who am I to comment) choose Death.

I know this fact, because twice a week (at a minimum) I drive through Hyde Park at about 7pm on my way home from work. And therefore twice a week (at a minimum) I nearly kill someone. I don’t mean to, I have no violence or malice in my heart – not before the incident, anyway – but despite this fact, I almost always nearly kill someone. And that is because no-one has explained to students that the rules of the road still apply even if you’re living away from home.

Yes, I know that there are millions of students who live in Hyde Park and that most of them walk and that a lot of the roads are clear a lot of the time. However, sometimes they are not clear, and it is genuinely not up to me to perfectly time when I drive through so that I don’t inconvenience someone on foot by making them pause for oooh, five extra seconds before crossing the road.

I’d be apologetic if that wasn’t such a stupid feeling to have.

Students, please. Learn that you have to look both ways before you cross the road. Please, please understand that you are in a fragile vehicle made of only flesh and blood, and I am in a scary metal box of death. Super extra please remember that there are even larger, even scarier metal boxes of death than mine, such as buses, and if I’m fed up of your antics, just imagine how the bus drivers are feeling.

How 10 people a day don’t get mown down thanks to their own sheer stupidity is beyond me. We let these people into higher education. What is happening to the world.

Have the actual Eddie Izzard video while I disappear into my own personal little middle-class rant.

The Spain Diaries (Part 3)

La FamiliaAs you no doubt remember, when I began writing this blog it was because I went on a year abroad to Morocco (and couldn’t be bothered to e-mail every day).

One of the big features of my time in Morocco was my amazing Moroccan family. I called them Mr Aziz, Madam Halima, BMB (big Moroccan brother) and BMS (big Moroccan sister). I’m still in touch with them, though not as often as I’d like given how important they’ve been in my life and to my development as a traveler and linguist. BMB is now married to a lovely lady and while I was in Spain I hopped across the strait of Gibraltar to go to their second wedding.

This blog post however, is not about that (I’ll cover that later). This is about my family in Spain. When I got there I had the option of trying to find a flat for myself for 3 months (all of which were tiny and hugely expensive), get myself a room in a flat of students (which is the norm there, as Granada is a big student destination), or find a family. The school, as in Morocco, offered the option of finding a “host family”, but I decided I could probably do it on my own. And I did.

I found Olga and Mario. They live in a lovely basement flat, about 3 minutes from the language centre with their dog Pepón. My room was lovely, the kitchen was well appointed, and we had a nice little courtyard. I sometimes sat and watched TV with them, but they also didn’t mind if I was out and about (and sometimes coming in all hours hilariously drunk, but that is also a story for another time). Living with them was amazing.

Like my lovely Moroccan family, living with Olga and Mario really brightened up my time in Spain, and gave me a very unique experience which I am so grateful for. No-one else lived with a family and they missed out because there is nothing like have a 5 year old to instantly love you and want to watch TV with you, and there is nothing like having a new Auntie figure to help you when you really need a fluent Spanish speaker. Even before I moved in with Olga I had some issues with my Spanish phone, and all I had to do was text her and she’d sorted it.

Not to mention that when Boyfriend came over to stay (twice, once at the start and once at the end) she was happy for him to stay with us, which I know most people wouldn’t be.

Honestly, if you’re going to live abroad, it’s all about finding a new family. You WILL have a better time.

 

Hi Mum! And some more Spain diaries (drawn)

I found out today that my mum is reading my blog again.  She is one of the 4 people who comes and checks it per day, I think.  I never started this blog with the intention of getting readers but it is actually really nice to log on daily and see that someone has been on.Anyway, today I am blogging from a trees an I et (otherwise known as a tablet) and as you can see I am having trouble typing, mostly due to the length of my fingernails, which as it turns out don’t integrate well with a touch screen interface.  So today’s post is going to be an image oriented one.

Last year, as I’ve said, I lived in Spain. In Granada to be precise. This is my pictorial description of Granada (with reference photos at at times)

Granada is roughly where the red dot is.

It’s a small city with a big monument (the second most visited in the world, after the Eiffel Tower). Yes,  it’s…

Except that the Spaniards couldn’t pronounce that (quite reasonably) and so they called it the Alhambra,  which isn’t far off.

Here are the other things that Granada is made of for me.

Enjoy.  More soon.

The Spain Diaries (Part 1)

So last year from March to June, I went and lived in Spain.You’re right of course, that is the whole point of a travel blog. Sorry I didn’t tell you about it.

So let me begin at the beginning, and we’ll see how we go. I went to live in Granada, Andalucía, in Southern Spain. I was there for 3 months studying at the Centro de Lenguas Modernas of the University of Granada, as part of my degree course. I was one of about 12 students over there from Leeds at the time, and I arrived just at the start of Semana Santa, with Boyfriend in tow.

In case you don’t know what Semana Santa is, it’s this:

Sometimes they have the pointy hats which look suspiciously KKK related, but it’s mostly a week of pretty awesome (if slightly ridiculous) parades full of colours, noise and people of all ages. It was an amazing way to introduce Boyfriend to the culture I’m so in love with.

More to come

Orford Castle and the Oregon Trail

I didn’t mention yesterday, but I’m currently down visiting my parents for a weekend. It’s always nice to come back to their house because although it’s not really my “home” any more (I’m just too attached to my own things, not least the far more sensible way that I arrange my fridge) it’s still comfortable to be here.We decided to spend the day out at Orford, which is a small town on the Suffolk coast. It’s not been the most stunning weather of late, but the forecast wasn’t shocking so we decided that we’d brave it. It was incredibly worth the effort. Orford is a lovely town, very quaint and with an adorable quay where we stopped for a crab sandwich and a look at the boats. From there we went on a little stroll before heading back to Orford Castle.

Orford Castle Keep (borrowed from English Heritage)

All that is left of the castle now is the keep, but it used to be a Motte and Bailey – which you will remember if you have recently been to a year 6 history lesson is a solidly built stone keep on top of a hill with an outer wall at the bottom of the hill, for defensive purposes.

The castle looks small from the outside, and to be honest we weren’t sure it was worth the price. But we went for it anyway, and I am so glad we did. Even though it’s quite bare on the inside it absolutely comes alive when you start listening to the audio guide (which is free!). You’re lead around the castle by a woman with a great radio voice and the Chaplain of the castle who is good for a few laughs. In 40 minutes I felt like I’d learnt the whole history of the castle without getting bored once. Not to mention there is a fantastic view from the top.
Oh, and I mentioned the Oregon Trail in the title.
The reason I’ve got the Oregon Trail on the brain is because one of the perks of staying with my parents is that I get to re-explore our collection of books, which happens to include one of my childhood favourites, a diary of a 13 year old girl on the Oregon Trail. I love anything historical and the Oregon Trail has always fascinated me because I can’t imagine having the bravery to pack my life into a wagon and move into what was basically uncharted territory (at least for the farming folk who decided to do the packing up and the moving). I’m not sure manifest destiny is something I can really approve of because I have too many “views”, but the stories still amaze me.
If you don’t know anything about it, get finding out, because it’s really fascinating.

Leeds and Cyprus and Many Other Things

Hi.

Basically, sorry.

I’m in Cyprus by the way, on holiday with Boyfriend, and though he has internet, I don’t, not having brought internet-friendly devices along with me for the ride. Silly me. So I am stealing his laptop for the purposes of this post, to let you know what’s been going on.

So I have a new pretty house in Leeds. Photos will follow. Basically it is big and high and nice and I like it. And it has a nice kitchen, so dinner at mine next year, I plan on re-living Fes to the maximum.

Then after Leeds I came to Cyprus, which is a lot of fun because I’ve never had a sun-sea-sand holiday before. I have chilled by the pool, and on the beach, and got burnt a lot. And then there have been active days as well which have included driving all through the mountains to see a monastery, and going on a jet-ski (Boyfriend drove, hence me still being alive), and going to a waterpark which was a new and exciting experience for me. Whoever thought of a theme-park but made of water is a genius in my books.

Boyfriend liked the bouncy-castle in the water best.

The only downside to all of this is that once again I have been bitten to death by mosquitoes, and it is ridiculously hot here so I haven’t slept due to night upon night of sweaty itching. Nice I know, but I am telling you all the details so that you can live my experiences as well. Kay?

Anyway, Boyfriend wants his laptop back, and is sat next to me criticising my use (or lack of use) of proper grammar, so I will have to end there.

Photos to follow I promise!

The Long Road Back

The trip back from Essyland was so astonishingly bad that it warrants a post of its very own. Let me begin by setting the scene. I’d not slept well in Essy due to the wind making doors bang (it is famous for the wind) and also the huge numbers of bugs. On the Wednesday I got up early to sort the house out a little, because I was in the first group to leave. There were 4 of us, and we were heading out at 11.15 so that we could travel in the light.The taxi came on time, but we realised part-way that one member of our group was on track to miss her bus because she’d got the time wrong. We stressed a little, but made it in the end. To find no bus, and apparently no tickets. Nonetheless she decided to wait (a choice which paid off because there were a few no-shows). Looking back, I should have gone with her to Marrakesh.

But no. We had a new plan. Rather than Essy-Marrakesh-Rabat we were going to do Essy-Casa-Rabat for a lower price. But Essy-Casa was by bus. 5 hour bus. So, when we got to the bus station and the guy suggested a different, but air-conditioned bus, we naturally said yes. Who wants to sit on a Moroccan bus for 5 hours without air con? Well…
Our new bus arrived at 1.15. The air-con existed, but if I owned the bus, I would be raving about it. We got on, and waited until 2 before we finally left Essy bus station, after spending a good 30 minutes creeping towards the gate. I tried to sleep, but it was hot, smelled bad, and was loud. We stopped at every little hovel and shack that we saw. The real kick in the teeth came when we found that group 2 (the chilled group who had left the house at 1 after a nice breakfast etc) had left Essy bus station at practically the same time as us.

So we were in a bad mood. Which worsened as the journey dragged on, in the end taking 6 hours rather than 5. Group 2 beat us there. When we got to Casablanca bus station we were greeted by the usual hoards of annoying Moroccans. Normally I am fine and just ignore them, but I really couldn’t hold in my anger. I swore vividly in English, and hit one man with my bag. Unfortunately none of them seemed deterred.

We got inside and met Group 2. They were mostly going on to Fes, and so me and one friend split off, to head for Rabat. Let me say that had we gone via Marrakesh we would have been in Rabat already. And we had declined the option to just stay on the bus for another hour as well. By this time, it was about 8pm. We got a taxi to the train station in Casa, and went to buy tickets. No-one was working. After a few minutes a woman pointed us to the platform and said to just get on the train. As we got there, it left. It then turned out that we were at the wrong station anyway for most of the Rabat trains. Casa has two stations. Stupid us.

So we grabbed a taxi to the other station, hoping to make the train at 9pm. The taxi driver seemed lovely, until he over-charged us by nearly 20Dh (OK, so it’s £1.50. So what? It’s my money) we pegged it into the station, only to discover that there was no 9pm train. Only 9.30. There had been a train at 8.30 which we would have caught had we come to this station first. And at the other station there had been, as it turned out, a train at 9.15. But who cares. We bought our tickets, and waited until 9.30.

On the upside, I rode on the top deck of a train. Yes, a double decker train. We need more of these in England. I finally arrived at the family place in Temara at 11.15pm an entire 12 hours after we set off.

Oh Morocco.

No…Seriously?

As you all probably gather, I get pretty stressed out sometimes. When I do, having a bit of time to just chill out is amazing.This weekend was supposed to be chill-out. We were having a class trip to Casablanca to celebrate two 21st birthdays by going clubbing in the evening of Friday and then shopping in the day of Saturday (especially for those non-clubbing types)

Everything that could go wrong, or weird, went wrong.

Dramatis Personae
Me
L – a classmate
A – birthday boy
N – birthday girl
P – another classmate
H – a Moroccan friend

Act 1
We began at midday yesterday, when class had finished. The plan was for us to eat couscous together and then head off. P had rented a car, as had N’s boyfriend, and then H had space in his car for the rest of us. N wanted to leave at about 1, since the drive is four hours, but P wanted to wait until 3, since that is when H was getting here.
We enjoyed our couscous, and then began the series of wacky events. Firstly, everyone unexpectedly left me.  I was fine just chilling with some American friends, but did start wondering what was going on towards 2ish, when N and her carful still hadn’t left. Evidently it was just an issue of motivation, because they left at 3. Unfortunately, without checking with the rest of the group.
This caused problems, because H had brought along 4 friends. Which meant that the 3 spaces we needed had been taken. We went about hiring a second car, which involved a lot of time, a lot of waiting, a lot of phone-calls (off my phone) and we finally came to the conclusion that I needed to go home, get my passport (being the only other owner of both passport and drivers licence) and then go to the rental. Where the money had already been paid. At this point we felt it was a bit silly, but it got worse.
H had used P’s rental car to go and find out about the second rental car. And P’s car broke down. So we were now 2 cars paid out, with neither of them actually with us. At this point, A decided it wasn’t worth it. Of the group that was left only 4 of us were the clubbing type, and it was now 5pm, meaning we couldn’t make it to Casa before sunset. We told H.

Act 2
H decided he could give 4 of us a lift, one of his friends having found another car. Only 3 wanted to go, A, L, and me. We waited around for the second car, but due to the driver deciding to stop off and buy a laptop (I kid you not) we decided that in order to make it to Casa in reasonable time we would sit 4 in the back of the one car we had. We set off at 6:30, with H, A, L and me all squeezed into the back.
The journey was full of bizarre music, including Hanson, and the occasional moment of either me or L, the two smallest, ducking into the footwell so that the police didn’t see us. Oh, and a bottle of red wine. We stopped off at a roadside café and were serenaded by some berber musicians who kindly included all of our names in their song, courtesy of H. All this time we were in contact with N trying desperately to find out where we were supposed to meet. At 10:00pm, as we hit Casablanca, we were told to go to Tamaris.
Tamaris is a beach town about 25km south of Casablanca. It would take us another hour. And rather than staying with friends we were paying 600dh. But whatever. We stopped at a cousins flat, and got changed into our party clothes there. It was all a bit creepy, and by this time A and L were quite worried about how the night was going. At 10:30 we got some bad news. N and her crew had decided they weren’t going clubbing. H said he could find us a place to stay, and we could still go. A was still up for it, so we said yes.

Act 3
We drove back into town, now 7 in the car, with 5 in the back, to get keys to a cousin’s (a different one) flat. It was unfurnished. At this point A cracked, and said he’d pay me and L into a nice hotel and have done. We still had s bottle of vodka, and we could have made it a good night. Then, a miracle. N had decided they would come out. We got dropped at a dodgy beachside KFC, and walked to a café to wait for them. It was 1am.
In the café A and I had beer, while L began on her sprite and vodka, in a covert operation to mix it without anyone seeing. A got offered a variety of substances by H’s mate (the laptop-purchaser) who had finally caught up, but he sensibly refused. N called us to join them at Carré Rouge, or Red Square Nightclub. We went to meet her, and drop all of our bags into her car.
When we got there we found them outside waiting. We needed to pay either 200dh each, or 300dh each and get a bottle of vodka between 6 of us. In Morocco clubs sell by the whole spirit bottle, and not by the glass, because drinking is illegal for Muslims. A had already paid when we realised that the bouncer wouldn’t let H in. We asked for a reason, and there was none. He had just decided. Nothing we could offer, including buying a full bottle EACH, would change his mind. I got A’s money back, and we all left.
Finally we made our way to Havana Club (like the rum) which let us in for free, and played decent music. A bought a bottle of vodka between us all and we danced the night away until 3:30am (so, about half an hour). Then we were chased out, and hopped in the car to go home.

Act 4
At this point, there were 7 English/Americans in the car, and two Moroccans outside of it. We said goodbye to H and drove off. N was feeling sick, and A and L were just very jolly, which made us being pulled over by the police even more fun. I don’t know if anyone has tried fitting 7 people into a Kia Picanto, but it’s no easy work. Especially when the driver (N’s bf) is tall, and so has to have his seat all the way back. We had one sitting on anothers lap in the front passenger seat, and then three in the back with a fourth lying across them.
The policeman seemed surprised we had 7 people in the car. He told us it was insured for 5. When me and A got out to get a taxi, he told us to get back in. He welcomed us to Morocco, and we bribed him an incredibly expensive 100dh coffee to let us off. Which he did.
We made it back to the beach house at about 4:30am. A and L wanted to see the beach, and no-one had the energy to stop them. N was still feeling pukey, so we let her do her thing. I curled up into a little ball, on a tiny chair. We had a phone call from A and L saying that they were being chased by a rabid dog, so two people went out to find them. They were fine, but had got lost. Music was played, drugs were smoked by some, and then we slept. At about 5:30am. At this point I’d been awake for a full 23 hours.
I woke up at 7am to find E, another friend, staring at me from the sofa opposite. It was freaky. I fell back to sleep and then woke at 8 to the same thing. I considered saying something, but went back to sleep again instead.

Act 5
We woke around midday. A, L, E and I wanted to get the train back to Fes at 3:15, but we wanted to see the beach first. After a bit of hassling we left at about 1:30. We took in some sea breeze, which certain members of the group really needed to fight their hang-overs. We headed back to the beach house at about 2.
Everyone else had left. We waited for them, and waited. They made it back at 2:15, and we began trying to head up into Casa. Let’s not forget we’re 25km south of the city anyway at this point. After much pushing we finally left the house at about 2:30. N’s boyfriend drove like mad, and we made it to the train station in time to run past the ticket office and onto the train. We paid on board.
The train journey went smoothly. We arrived back in Fes at 6:30, exactly 24 hours after setting off. A and L waited with me for a taxi. L finally grabbed one, and I waved goodbye. My taxi driver was very talky, and very creepy, but I was too tired to notice. He dropped me off home without any arguments.

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is why I am never going on a fun/relaxing weekend away ever again.

Oh, and I got a mosquito bite on my nose.

A polite notice to Moroccan drivers

Hello there. If you are reading this then you drive in Morocco.I don’t expect you to know how to drive. Or even have a driving licence. And you certainly never wear a seatbelt. I know all these things, and I can tolerate them, but there are certain things which I just can’t handle when I walk home from school.

This is a polite notice to Moroccan drivers. Sort this out or I will key your car.

1) Indicators

  • To point out; to discover; to direct to a knowledge of; to show; to make known; To show or manifest by symptoms; to point to as the proper remedies; as, great prostration of strength indicates the use of stimulants; To signal in a vehicle the desire to turn right or left; To investigate the …
This is what Google defines as ‘indicating’. Allow me to draw your attention to the highlighted section. It’s very simple. You use those little flashing lights to show when you are turning. If you are not turning, then there is no need to have them on. It is, in fact, incredibly misleading. I can forgive the odd slip in turning without indicating, but there is no reason on Earth to indicate and then not turn. None at all.
2) Doors
This is mostly directed at taxi drivers. Doors are the four entrances into your car. In the same way as the door of your house, these are occasionally expected to close and stay closed. Please try to refrain from driving down the road with a passenger still trying to close the door. It is dangerous. It scares me.
3) Brakes
Most Moroccans are well used to using their brakes. I just want to make you aware that they are not meant to squeal whenever you use them. That is neither a good sign, nor normal. Your brakes probably squeal because you use them too violently because you seem to think you’re the only person on the road. Please have someone check your brakes.
Thank you for your patience and cooperation. And I am serious, I will key your car.

Home

I am feeling unreasonable animosity towards the herd of British people on Facebook who are insistently rubbing my face in the fact that there is ridiculous snow over there. Today Ryanair cancelled all flights into London, which is a bad precedent for little old me, flying tomorrow.

I have to be honest, being stuck here wouldn’t be terrible. Sure, I’d not enjoy not seeing my family after being away for three months, and it would be rubbish to not see The Boy, but I am lucky enough to have a lovely adoptive family here, who will do all they can to make me being unexpectedly stranded bearable. So to be honest I’m just preparing myself for that eventuality now.

Having said that, I have to take a second to remind everyone that I DON’T WANT TO KNOW ABOUT THE SNOW. In the nicest way possible.